Trip Reports

Everest Base Camp Trek - 2 - 23 Oct '05

Kala Patar bathed in sunlight, below Pumori

Written by Leader Paul Donovan, October 2005

Yet another successful trek to Everest Base Camp, Kala Patar, the Cho La Pass and Gokyo Ri for the 22-Day Trek Team - Ieuan, Linda, Fred, Martin, John, Nick and Chris. The team met up at Heathrow Airport on Sunday 2 October at 18:30. A quick and easy ‘check in’ led us through to departures before taking off on time, bound for Doha. After a two hour wait in Doha, we were off again – destination Kathmandu. On arrival, we collected our bags and headed for the Summit Hotel. So far so good.

An early start on Day 3 saw us depart Kathmandu, bound for Lukla with a very excited team, having never flown in the mountains or in a Twin Otter before. Our Sirdar (Gyalchen) met us in Lukla, from where our trek began shortly after. The team were in good spirits and excited about what lay ahead. They were not to be disappointed. As the days unfolded, the experiences that the Khumbu Valley gave to them, certainly enthused them for more – Phakding, Namche Bazar, Khumjung, Khunde, Phunki Tenga and Tengboche gave the team memories never to be forgotten. As we descended from Tengboche to Deboche on Day 6 we saw our first glimpse of the big one – Everest. There was definitely a sense of excitement in the air following this sighting and of the anticipation of what was to follow, more sightings of not just Everest, but all the other big mountains in the region.

Deboche to Dingboche was a steady day as we watched the mountains unfold around us with the dispersing of the clouds. Dingboche also saw the team’s baptism to the game of ‘Uno’, with five wins in a row, Ieuan left everyone else feeling a little inadequate until they realised that cheating was actually part of the game. The team’s acclimatisation day at Dingboche saw us ascend to 4,830m on Nagkar Tshang, before descending for lunch and an afternoon of rest, in preparation for another night of ‘Uno’.

Dingboche to Lobuche gave us a 100m initial ascent, followed by a gradual incline to lunch at Dughla. The steep ascent to the Thokla Pass and the Memorial Stones was short lived, placing us in Lobuche feeling reasonably refreshed, with the exception of Fred who appeared to be a little spaced out for a while – he just needed a coke fix (a coca cola fix that is!) The weather was improving by the day with our trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep providing us with great views of all around us – Nuptse, Pumori, Lingten to name but a few. While at Gorak Shep, the team began to realise the enormity of what they had achieved so far and were now in the thick of what was once a dream and had now become a reality.

Our trek to Everest Base Camp from Gorak Shep was minus one team member due to the effects of altitude. For the rest of us who basked in glorious sunshine with excellent views throughout the day, it was a 7 hour round trip. A tiring, yet rewarding day for all concerned, despite no summit teams being at base camp. Kala Patar came the following day, again in glorious sunshine, eventually. Views from the top were stunning. We were able to see the South Col and the Lhotse Face as well as the Khumbu Ice Fall – an emotional time for some, a chance to chat up a couple of Dutch girls for others! A speedy descent to Gorak Shep saw us pack up and head back to Lobuche for the night.

Unfortunately, Martin had not recovered whilst at Gorak Shep so it was the homeward leg for him as he continued on to Pheriche for a check up at the hospital where it was recommended that he take a helicopter journey back to Kathmandu.

Our minds were now set on our next objective – the Cho La Pass. From Lobuche, we headed for Dzonglha, a day in which we saw Lamigia and Golden Eagle. From camp, just outside Dzonglha, at Leisyasa (4,860m), we could see what was in store for us the next day – a steep ascent to the Cho La Pass. The Cho La pass was yet another highlight of the trek, giving spectacular views down both sides of the valley – where we had been and where we were going. A steep, tiring yet rewarding descent landed us in Dragnag.

The following day saw us cross the Ngozumpa Glacier (considered to be the longest glacier around), to Gokyo. This short trek gave us time for a speedy ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,364m) during the afternoon, from where views of many of the major peaks could be seen.

From Goyko, it was 4 days back to Lukla, passing through Machermo, Dole, Kyangjuma and Phakding as we followed the Dudh Kosi River from its source at Gokyo. The scenery never ceased to amaze us. Lukla brought memories of our exciting flight in and thoughts of a downhill take off – yet another fine experience, before finally returning back to Kathmandu and glorious sunshine and warmth.

The team were eager to get back to the hotel, clean up and head for Thamel for a spot of souvenir shopping. A farewell dinner was held at the Rum Doodle Bar and Restaurant for the team and our Sirdar, followed by a day of sightseeing in Kathmandu. A planned early flight the following day turned out to be delayed by 2½ hours, yet we still arrived in London only 1 hour late, to bid our farewells and go our separate ways.

Well done all!
Dai awn pawb!

Paul Donovan
Expedition Leader « Previous report | Next report »

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